Tuesday, September 11, 2012

4 Shades of India


My Travel Companions
 I recently took a 10-day train trip across India visiting 4 different cities and I must say was one of the best trips of my life. I saw so much in such a little time. Seeing all these places gave me a good look into the many worlds of India, where each city seemed to possess its' own culture and way of life. I'm so happy I was able to see India outside of my area, otherwise I would not have the best picture of India. As you've seen in the previous blogs, India has some cultural issues that are hard for me to come to terms with, and I was able to experience different sides (or Shades) of India that was truly an experience. Here is a map of where I went. I started down in Kochi, then went to Bangalore, then Mysore then Hampi, then Goa. 



1st Stop: Bangalore



'Greenery is good for your health.' Sign for a park in the middle of Bangalore City

Bangalore is a huge city that is the IT capital of India. It is very western and has almost everything I can get in  the U.S.  It is mainly just good for eating, pubbing and shopping. And yes, I'm aware pubbing isn't a verb, but Bangalore is known for all of its pubs, so it's not just drinking, it's pubbing. Amazingly, I didn't even go to pub while I was there. It just wasn't in the cards. Turns out pubs there don't have good food. So we just never made it to one. I did see the botanical gardens and Bangalore Palace. I also ate Subway( which is the only Subway I've seen in India) and had some amazing western food. Really though, Bangalore was just ok compared to the other cities I visited. It was mainly just good for the food:) 


Botanical Gardens

Botanical Gardens


Botanical Gardens

Cow cart in the middle of traffic, of course. 





One of the best signs ever! "Stop En-violent-mentalism. Support Environmentalism"

2nd Stop: Mysore

Mysore is a smaller city, pretty much only known for its' palace. It is a huge palace with lots of historical value, although I'm still unsure of all the history regarding the palace, but it looks beautiful. We also went to a local market with tons of stuff, although it was mainly the same stuff over and over again. 


Mysore Market

Mysore Market

Mysore Market

Palace Entrance




Mysore Town Center



3rd Stop: Hampi

There are no words to describe Hampi other than beautiful. Hampi is small unique town that is all vegetarian and non-alcoholic. Most people who live here are Hindu and believe the town to be sacred ground. The town is surrounded in ancient temples and statues from the 14th century. Ironically, this is the town that I got food poisoning in, which was a horrible experience, but worth it for just being able to see it. There were lots of animals that just roam around, including monkeys! It is also home to one of the best cappuccino's I've ever had! (See below, look at that foam!)


Best Cappuccino with the best scene!

Famous Temple I can't remember the name of























Probably one of my favorite pics. Cow at shop.

4th Stop: Goa

Goa is a very small state that is practically all beaches. It is very touristy so it barely feels like India. I went to small beach town that was amazing.  I got to swim IN MY ACTUAL SWIMSUIT! Most women just swim in their normal everyday clothes, but since I was in a tourist area, and we like to wear swimsuits, they were acceptable. I had a great time relaxing in a hammock, eating non-Indian food and hanging out with other tourists. Not to mention it was cheap too. We got an on the beach hotel, with a room facing the ocean for $12 a night!


Our Hotel














Beach Cows!






Monday, August 20, 2012

In the news....

I had a weird and interesting day today. I went to my field placement and we visited a work site, as we normally do, but this time something was different. This time migrant workers were extremely hesitant and would not co-operate with us. They were very suspicious, argumentative, and resisted any explanation that we were just there to inform them about AIDS and gather information for data purposes. This has never happened quite like this before. They are usually hesitant of us yes, but outwardly argumentative, never. Something was in the air.
Later on I found out that I can only send 5 text messages per day for the next, oh I don't know, 10 days or so as per the India Government. What the heck is going on today?
Well I found out. Political unrest in the northeast. Apparently the migrants at my work site were scared we were going to take their information and give it to people, people who would attack them. Violent threats have been rumoring around the media about attacks on the people of Assam, a northeastern state in India. Because of this, the people of Assam have been fleeing and have been on edge, including the ones all the way down south, in Kerala, where I am. Right now, I'm probably in one of the safest places to be. Most of the political protests and riots happen in the northern cities. I really have little insight as to what is going on politically, but there seems to be some tension with Pakistani ans (nothing new here) and a bunch of fighting between political parties. So here is a news story I came across that explains a little bit about what's going on and the history of tension in India.

Cultural Unrest

While looking up news about this cultural unrest, I also found this great article about the situation for women in India. This article does an amazing job of capturing the heart of how the culture contributes to women's  inequality. It gives a better view for those of you not in India about what I'm facing here.

No Country for Young Women



Tuesday, August 14, 2012

My Field Placement


So, for those of you who may think I'm just on vacation, I'm going to provide some proof that I'm actually working. I mentioned earlier that my field placement was at a Migrant Outreach program to help provide awareness, education and resources regarding HIV/AIDs. Basically, the focus of the project is reduce the the spread of HIV/AIDS by narrowing the focus to a high-risk population, migrant workers.

So, to do this, my program is divided into specific regions and each location goes out into their community and asks companies with migrant workers to agree to hold a medical camp at their work-site. If the company agrees then our program will set up a medical camp every 90 days at the work-site.

The medical camps allow migrant workers to see a doctor on-site and obtain any needed medications immediately. Although the medications are limited of course. Our staff will set up a table, usually in the middle of the work-site and workers may come up to the table and sign up to see the doctor. We register each worker and gather some basic demographic information so that information can be included in data analysis. Me and the other interns have been doing the registering of the migrants and have had to learn some Hindi to do it. None of the migrants speak English and because they are from different states, they know mostly Hindi. So I've been practicing my Hindi and although I still need a lot of practice, I can now communicate with some of the migrants on my own, limitedly of course.

Me attempting to speak Hindi to the workers


Outreach workers registering Migrant workers  to see the doctor.

Also, while we are visiting each work-site, we may also conduct an HIV/AIDs awareness class as well as an educational video. This is all dependent upon what each company will allow to have at their work-site. Some companies may not allow an HIV/AIDs class to be taught. Condoms may also be given out at each work-site depending on whether the company permits it or not. Even if a company does not allow a class to be taught, there is still counseling provided to each individual before they see the doctor. This counseling involves asking specific questions to determine the HIV/AIDS risk level of each migrant. If the counselor determines that the migrant is a high-risk, they will refer them to an ICTC center, where free HIV testing is provided.

Our Counselor teaching a HIV/AIDs awareness class

So far I think my internship is going well. It is great that my colleagues allow and encourage us interns to do hands-on work. It is sort of expected that we won't be doing much actual work here because of the language barrier, but so far I'm pretty happy with the amount of actual work I seem to be doing. I'm also working on gathering data from a questionairre that me and the other UMB students made. The questionairre is a survey we give to some of  the migrants about their knowledge of HIV/AIDs, their behaviors, etc. I will basically be conducting a whole research study from scratch, which will be great experience.



 Anyway, I apologize for the delay in posts. Hopefully my next post will come sooner and feel free to throw out suggestions! Now that classes are in full swing I feel my creative juices are waning...





Tuesday, July 24, 2012

It's a 'Cultural' Thing....

This is the response I seem to get when I inquire about any sort of discrimination or lack of equality among males and females here. This topic is something that's bothered me the whole time I've been here and I feel it's important that I bring it to attention. I think it's important to be made aware of such issues, even those of you in America, where, I once took for granted my ability to be independent as a woman. But that's the thing, I don't think I should have to be grateful for being independent and being able to live without society telling me what role I need to fill. I think it should be natural, something that just is. There's still some work to do in America, but here I almost feel suffocated by the cultural norms that seem to control everyone's lives.  Part of the issue is I am residing in an area that is more conservative than the rest of India, which means traditional man/woman roles are followed, and definitely not questioned. I've been able to  talk to a few people now, one of which was kind enough hold a discussion and answer my questions. The other two, well, couldn't really grasp what I was talking about.


One person I talked to was a BSW student here. She's probably only about 20, and may not have all the critical thinking skills I was hoping for. As I'm talking to this student, it's as if she doesn't know the word 'unfair.' I ask her how she feels about her curfew. "What do you mean?" she said. "Well, do you think it's unfair that you have be in at 7 and the boys don't have to be until 10?" She looked at me with a very puzzled stare. "No, no. This is how it's always been." I decided not to push, it was obvious I wasn't going to be able to discuss this in a legitimate manner with her.

Another day, my supervisor asked me and another student about discrimination in America. I was surprised, and tried to deliver a genuine answer that was something like, "It's technically illegal, but happens anyway, particularly in certain parts of the country." So, this seemed like the perfect opportunity to discuss how she felt about discrimination here. So I ask, "What about the discrimination in Kerala? Do you find there is a lot?"  Her answer...."Oh no, there isn't any in Kerala. There is a lot in other states though." The first thing that came to my head is 'you've got to be kidding me!'  Our conversation was mainly regarding discrimination with race, but even so, there is still discrimination here with different castes, and couldn't believe she told me she didn't think there was any here. I wanted to ask her "WHAT ABOUT WOMEN?!!" But decided if she couldn't see it, then there was no point in getting into it.

 At this point, I'm feeling very disgruntled about the whole topic. It just doesn't process in my mind how people don't see that women have very few choices about how they will live their life. They are told who to marry, how to act, what to wear, who to pray to. Of course, legally, women are free to do what they please, but no woman dares to go outside of the cultural norms put in front of them, or else their reputation would suffer, and thus, doomed to not be accepted by others. On the other hand, stepping outside cultural norms doesn't process to them either. They can't comprehend wearing a bikini to the beach, drinking alcohol, wearing shorts, having short hair, having a boyfriend....all of it just doesn't compute, just as my brain doesn't compute not being able to choose to be able to do these things. So it's almost as if some them have no idea that they are being controlled by society, they are happily unaware.

I had a recent discussion with a classmate who I've hung out with from time to time. I felt pretty comfortable telling him my misgivings about the subject. All my questions about curfew, marriage, dating, discrimination  etc were pretty much answered with, "It's a cultural thing."  He himself disagrees with some of the practices, for instance, having a dowry and even arranged marriages and plans to not follow those practices himself. But that's only one person I've met that will admit to such things. He acknowledges that the culture trumps independent thinking. It's a way of life, that's how it is. "BUT THAT DOESN'T MAKE IT RIGHT" I tell him. I have a hard time believing that people are ok with spending the rest of their life with someone they've known for 15 minutes....literally. This is what happens in an arranged marriage, the parents pick a mate and the children get to spend a few minutes with the other to decide if they agree with the arrangement. I doubt few  object.
My classmate also reveals that most Indians have a very specific view of American marriage, that it's tainted and lacks any sort of effort in commitment. "Yes, we have a very high divorce rate,' I tell him, 'but if divorce was culturally accepted here, I bet a lot more couples would divorce in India."  Basically, if you are a divorced woman here, you can never get married again. Of course, it's easier for a divorced man to get married, but no one wants a divorced women here, so women choose to stay in unhappy marriages, even marriages where the husband abuses her. What is the alternative? There's no reward for being an independent single women here...it's social suicide. Just like going out after 7, wearing certain clothing, drinking alcohol, remaining single are all acts of social suicide. It's not 'illegal' but if you do these things there will be social consequences.

This is something that I may not be able to fully understand. Only if I were in their shoes. I don't blame women for following their cultural norms, I'm sure I would be the same way. But that doesn't mean I shouldn't question it. Discussion is the beginning of change. I can only hope that by relaying my thoughts, it will propel others to start thinking about their situations. Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to change a culture because I feel mine is better, but I do feel there is something wrong with basically outlawing any other culture or way of life to exist alongside with another culture. That is the beauty of choice. I only want people to feel they aren't forced to live a life just because they are told to do so. As unrealistic as that outcome may be here, you have to start somewhere right?

Monday, July 16, 2012

The Best Bowl of Cereal I've Ever Had

I'm sure many of you have gone through a period where you're away from home and you never really realized how much you've become accustomed to your soap. And after a while, you really start to miss your soap....who would have thought? Well, as an American, of course, I've become accustomed to many things that just aren't the same or lacking altogether here.

So,my sister was going to send me a package and I told her I wanted some cereal and soymilk. They have cereal here, but it's pretty much just a bunch of different flavored corn flakes, and has little nutritional value. And yes, I do care about the nutritional value of my cereal, I'm weird like that I suppose. Anyway, my package comes and when the day comes that I'm able to eat a bowl of cereal, I swear, it was the best bowl of cereal I've ever had. I had forgotten how much I liked cereal in the morning, (and not pea curry with rice-my normal breakfast).

Once again, I've compiled a list (I may have a list problem) of things that I wouldn't have thought that I would miss, or miss as much here, but definitely do. It doesn't actually include soap, the soap selection is pretty good here, but some other important daily things.



  • Wheat Bread

    • Um, wheat bread is almost non-existent here. I've found some "wheat" bread but it is nothing like my '100% Whole Wheat' back in the US. I hate white bread, but I will take white bread sandwiches over rice for lunch any day.

So, the one on the right is obviously the wheat bread, but it really isn't that big of a difference taste wise. I think the bread people just throw a few grains into the white bread mix. 

  • Comfortable Furniture
    • I'm not quite sure whether they feel if there is no comfortable furniture here than people will be forced to be productive or what, but I can't tell you how much I would do something awful for some decent furniture around here. I can feel almost every spring in my "couch" and my pillow was probably an extra brick laying around at a construction site. Ok, I'm obviously exaggerating to make a point, as I often do, but for real, I'm no lazy boy enthusiast, but a little feathers or stuffing here and there wouldn't hurt.

  • Coffee
    • This one I admit may be a bit subjective, given that I'm aware I'm a bit of coffee snob, but basically, the coffee here tastes like tree bark. I really thought India would have good coffee, but I have yet to find it. Most of the 'coffee shops' at least in this area serve instant coffee, which comes with milk and sugar automatically. It does the job, but I would also do some harm for a starbucks...Thanks to my awesome connections though (Amanda ;) ) I should have some arriving shortly. 

  • Lettuce
    • So, no lettuce here, or extremely small amounts iceberg on occasion at nice restaurants. I guess it's because it doesn't grow here, and unlike the U.S., India doesn't import every possible food and it's dog. So it's good to know that the food is somewhat local, but I still miss me a good salad with some balsamic vinaigrette. 

  • Menus that have what they say on them
    • It's pretty much a guarantee that when going out to eat, the restaurant won't have half the stuff that it lists. And for me, it can take me awhile to make a decision that I carefully thought about, only to learn that they don't have what I chose, or the 2 other backup things, ugh.

  • Not getting ripped off

    • It doesn't happen that often, but about 1 and 10 rickshaw(taxi) drivers will try and give us a higher amount than it actually is. We learned this pretty quickly, so we have the rates of a taxi ride down and always ask before we get in how much it will be. Here you can bargain with the rickshaw drivers, so there is no meter, but there is a standard rate that is somewhat flexible. So now we know when people are trying to rip us off, and it happens more than I would like and is quite annoying.

So, all of you in the US better be thankful for all of these things :) There are of course more things I miss, such as my friends and family! But I knew I would miss everyone! I didn't expect to miss lettuce....Anyway, I appreciate all your feedback and keep it coming! I'm glad your enjoying it so far!

Sunday, July 8, 2012

What I've learned so Far

Most of you (including myself about a month ago) do not know much about the city I'm in, Kochi, and the surrounding area. I'm going to try and break down what I've learned so far so all of you can grasp a little bit of what life is like here. Keep in mind I've only been here for a little over 3 weeks, so this is my perception as of now, I could end up learning more about certain subjects that will give me a more holistic view.

*I currently live outside of Kochi in an area called Kalamassery. The state is called Kerala which has over 33 million people in it and Kerala is about the size of Maine. India itself has about 1.2 billion people and I can honestly say I did NOT know that when I came here. I knew China was crowded, but I didn't realize India was this populated.

* There are 3 main religions in Kerala. Hindu, which makes up about 60 percent, Muslim, about 20 percent, and Christian, about 20 percent. Outside of Kerala, Hindu makes up more than 90 percent of the religious demographic. I was hoping to learn about Hinduism while I was here, but given that I attend a Catholic college and typically am surrounded by Christians, it makes that a difficult task.


Catholic Church on Campus

Jesus statue on campus

Mosque


*Speaking of religion, people here associate extremely strongly with their religion. There is no such thing as not being associated with a specific faith. (I'm sure it exists, but not admitted). People always associate with the religion they grew up in, there is no (or extremely limited cases of) switching faiths.

*The local language spoken here is called Malayalam. Most people also know at least a little English. English is considered the educated language so most post secondary schools teach in English. Hindi is the most widespread spoken language in India, but hardly anyone speaks that in my area.

*There is no animal shelters here, which means there are a lot of stray dogs and cats, which breaks my heart. Sometimes I feel like I'm living in one of those commercials with the abused animals, you know the ones, with Sarah McLachlan playing in the background. Some of the dogs and cats are so skinny, and it makes me sad that I can't do anything about it :(

 * Although the monsoon season is not as heavy as it usually is, so far, it is just really some heavy periods of rain throughout the day and some heavy rain at night. The sun will still come out throughout the day and will almost instantly dry everything up again until the next rain comes. At its heaviest times, it is almost like someone dumping a bucket of water on you head, but that doesn't last very long. Sometimes the rain can come out of nowhere, and I have got caught in some heavy downpours where an umbrella was almost pointless. I've also heard some of the Indian students will shower outside during the monsoon rain to save water...only in India...

*Sometimes things just don't work here. The internet is spotty and the electricity cuts off multiple times a day. People are used to it. I've been in a few situations where it's cut out in a meeting, and the room goes dark, but the presenter just keeps talking like nothing happened and us Americans are looking at each other like "What the heck?"

 *Kerala is a democratic socialist state. Which really boils down to the government provides a lot of public programs. Healthcare is virtually free and a lot of education is free, and cheaper. Leaders are elected and the socialist party is currently in control. There are a bunch of different political parties here, but from what I understand, there are still general labels of left being 'liberal/socialist' and right being 'traditional/conservative.' I'm not well informed on the politics here, but I (of course) find them fascinating and I plan on learning a lot more to help me understand what is really going on politically here.

*Women make up 50 percent of the political body here, but still experience cultural discrimination. This is something that has been very difficult for me to adjust to. Women cannot drink or smoke at all. Legally women can drink, but if they do, they will get labeled as a whore. Us Americans sort of get a free pass on this. They know Americans drink so they don't hold us to the same standard. I do want to be able to talk with local women here to get a good idea of how they really feel and possibly see what can be done about certain issues, but I have a feeling I won't get very far. I tried to talk to a BSW student on campus about their curfews, but it didn't get the response I was hoping. Women have a 7pm curfew, EVERYDAY. Men have a 10pm curfew. WTF! Having curfews as a Master's student is of course, ridiculous to me, but the fact that women always have to be home by 7 and the men can be out until 10 is blatant discrimination in my eyes. I plan to post more about this topic in the future as I gather more information, including my conversations with some of the students, so I won't say anything more about it here, but don't worry, I'm not letting this go!

*Most people still do arranged marriages here, and most of those include dowreys. This means that nobody at my school dates, which is very bizarre to me. So those of you who were thinking I would fall in love, get married and stay here, my chances are very slim. Once again, this issue is something I'm still trying to gain knowledge about and will discuss more about dating/marriage customs in future blogs.

*Things are just dirtier here. 

Friday, June 29, 2012

Raindrops on Roses and Whiskers on Kittens...



I started making a list of my favorite things in India and was soon humming the 'Sound of Music' song about favorite things. I'll probably have that song in my head now for a few days...oh well. Keep in mind, the state that I'm in, Kerala, is actually a nicer state in terms of poverty, education level, and job wages, so I'm really not exposed to the bad parts of India. Once I do see those parts, though, I will be sure to compare my experiences.In the mean time, here are some of the best things about India so far:

The Cows and Goats: 

Yes, the cows and goats roam around in the street. Not as much in my region, but it still happens. It is true that  traffic will stop or go around a cow in the road, they are respected just as much as other living things. It may just be me, but the cows seem to look happier here :)

Tropical Cows

This cow is right outside of my house, just taking an afternoon stroll. 



The Beach: 

That's pretty much self explanatory, I will always love beaches and being near the coast, a beach trip will always be in my near future for the next 5 months:) The only negative is I have to travel far to go to a beach that permits swimsuits. Some beaches you can still swim, but no one will wear a swimsuit, just their normal clothes. Also, the beaches that do have swimsuits, women usually only wear one pieces, so I will have to make that purchase soon.


The Arabian Sea

Cherai Beach


All of my fellow American classmates


The scenary:

 Everywhere I go there is something to be seen. While there is a lot of poverty and grime in India, there is always some beauty to go along with it.

Pond at Cherai Beach Resort

Fort Kochi Shore

Underneath a palm tree


The cheap stuff: 

Basically, going out to eat and getting a full lunch or dinner costs no more than 2 dollars. Bus rides are always around 25 cents or less. The exchange rate is approximately 57 rupies per dollar, So our money goes a long way here. Although, electronics and clothes are similar in price.


This was a buffet table at a  resort restaurant. It cost 300 Rupies for this buffet, which is approximately $5, and it was nice. 

Resort Restaurant



How nice people are: 

I'm sure I may be getting tired of people coming up to us in about a month, but for now, I'm fascinated at how happy people are and how they want to talk to us. Almost everywhere we go, people approach us just to say hello and ask where we are from and what we're doing. Sometimes it's led to some nice and interesting conversations with strangers, sometimes it's a hello and exchange of basic information. Regardless, I definitely am feeling the sense of community here, and pretty much feel safer here than in Baltimore.

Walking past these men, they smiled at us, said hello, and wanted us to take a picture of them. 

We were at a store buying clothes. In this store they have stage for entertainment. We were watching musicians and dancers perform and the next thing we know, they wanted the Americans to come  up on stage and dance.

People taking pictures of the Americans dancing

We were invited to this wedding even though we've never met the  bride and groom. 




The sustainable living: 

My campus is focusing on becoming a Zero-Waste campus and they are actually very close to that goal. When we eat in the cafeteria, we wash are own dishes and place them back in the pile to be used. We discard wasted food into a compost pile. We also sign up for our meals so our cooks know how much food to make, so there will be no waste. The trashcans on school always have a bio-degradable one next to it. They also don't use plastic. Unfortunately, most of India isn't as sustainable as this, but our school is working toward developing programs to help implement these concepts, especially since the sanitation here isn't great.

Biodegradable Trashcan on Campus

Good reminder to turn off the lights


The Playgrounds:

All the playgrounds I've seen in India look amazing. I only wish I had one like this as a child.





Right now this is all I can think of, but I'm sure there will be a round two of my favorite things to come.....